Day LXVI – MAI 23, 2012

bias tugel1
I wake up at 9am and try sleeping in a little. But it’s no use with the sun burning out there, with just a simple roof in between, and a net to give me privacy on a floor that swings out 10 centimeters everytime someone walks by. So I get up from my 2-centimeter thick mattress, grab my beachbag and head out for some breakfast.

Some weird things I encounter on the way: a cockfight, luckily the owners pull them apart long before it gets as nasty as the one Thomas told us about last night.
Then there was the slaughter of a big marlin that was just caught, that had to be fitted on a scooter to be taken some place.
As I sit here by the side of the ocean waiting for my pancake a very old lady comes over and puts her fragile hand on my table and looks at me expectanly. A little scary, but mostly sad…

As it is such a small town and so few backpackers or tourists in general hang out here, you quickly get a sense of home and community and the feeling of ‘us’ is easily established again.
At white sand I see Kayla again. She tells me how she was hungover all day yesterday; the arak really got her bad. Though she was the one sneaking in through the rounds trying to get a little extra. Careful what you wish for, ey. There are stories though, of people loosing their sight over arak…
Also I meet Chris and Joe and we have heaps of fun with the waves and a crab that appears to be after us, and their fribee – yet another sport I suck at terribly.
At some point I tried walking into the water, but a wave no higher than my knees came in with such force it sweppd me right of my feet and threw me on beach so hard I got a big scratch on my thigh by the sand.
And then we see a school of 10 fish or so, not far out, skipping over the bay; awesome!

As I am a bit of an adolescent when it comes to drinking beer, I’m now at the stage of peeling. And I know what is said about peeling, but I don’t care, I only started drinking it a few months ago; I’m entitled to some catching up. And I’ve taken to a little project. The big table outside of Sunshine; I mean to cover it in peels entirely. Last night I got started on it, got an eight of the table done and asked the boys not to remove it and explained the project and how it means good business for them: “I won’t be leaving and will keep ordering beers until I fill this whole table.” However, when I came back tonight, all of it is gone. I have to start all over again?!

Day LXV – MAI 22, 2012

topi inn
When I wake up at 10am I ask what check-out time is and I’m given an other hour to pack my stuff.

I decided to get a ticket from Denpasar to Jakarta; I’ll be off cheaper that way than making my way west by Perama and taking a train over Java, and it will leave me with more time to enjoy Bali. Travel shops can’t help me buying a ticket though, so I have to get it through internet; quite a hassle without a credit card.

The other beach today: white sand. I walk back to the harbour and on, a little gang up a hill and then a path with some cows grazing besides it. Up and up, until I reach the top, sweating. Here the sounds of the town die out, and after a climb under a burning sun a fresh breeze is all too welcome.
One last blow from behind brings the sounds of prayer just starting their singing and bells ringing.
Before me I see the ocean spreading out, and beneath me is the whitest beach and bluest water! I run down there almost tripping over my own feet and jump right in! Excellent! I’m home…

Tonight I have dinner at warung Martini where a sweet old lady cooks lovely dinner, or rather lets her daughter do so while she sits down and chats with her customers.
I meet Hayley and the German guy that are also on a mattress in Topi, and Thomas, another German, who moved to Asia 2½ years back and now is a diving instructor, and shares a gory story of a cockfight he saw today.

Somehow we got to talking about the Gilies and Thomas is showing off about his house on Gili Air. So we make a deal for the weekend; as he’s not spending it there. I rent it from him for 3 nights at 200. We’ll meet at Sunshine again this Thursday for the key. He draws me a map of how to get there. “Just say you’re looking for Thomases house, anyone can tell you where to go.”

It’s funny how, as I look over to Sunshine Bar two doors down, I see Koming sitting there chatting to some people, the whole view of the parking lot, it all looks so familiar.

Tonight the livemusic is in Kinky Reggae Bar, quite the party! This place is a little more shabby but serves well to the needs of a backpacker. The iffy toilet is just a bit much after the luxery of the one Sunshine has so I end up there again.
When I want to walk home around 1pm, Momon, one of the staff, makes a point of driving me home on his scooter, even though the walk is just 5 minutes. How these people look so fit while taking their bikes to cross even the smallest of distances, I don’t know.