The walk of shame

Day XXII – April 9

And on the third day he swung his hammer at me once more to deliver the final punch that threw me down absolutely.

For the second time in my life ever, I wake up completely disorientated. A few seconds and some looks around later I realize: I’m at Shannon’s, the Canadian I met last night at a river bar, and ran into again at Bucket bar, where we flirted scandalously. Eventually I let him show me to his room.
It was a little disappointing though. He’s sexy, sure, but could not really live up to his promise of being that amazing black lover.
And when I was out on his balcony to have a cigarette, who do I see walking the bridge back from party island but Levi, and I feel my heart drop to my feet.

So this morning I walked the walk of shame. In Vang Vieng. Barefoot – my flip-flops constantly fell apart yesterday, so at some point I decided shoes are for whimps. And without shades to hide behind.

Here’s a first attempt at solid food: yoghurt. After about three steady hours, just now my body decided to reject everything again; water, coke, all of it. Long enough for the imodium and the ORS to kick in I hope.
Wait – I see a patern. It’s the guys. Men; they make me sick, literally…
My tummy started acting up again in a bad way, with a constant cramp today.
But by now I’m starting to get hungry and I’ve never been this thirsty in my life. So I guess that’s a good sign.
And of course it hit twice as hard today, after all those vile free buckets the bars try to seduce you with, and the addition of X beers and no real dinner to speak of…
Oh the joy of simply cooled drinking water! Those sweet boys! The ones that run the hostel, they’ve been keeping an eye on me all day, poking their heads around the dorm door every now and then to ask if I’m still OK or need anything, or if they should call the healing lady. At some point I asked if they had a fridge I could cool my water in, but they don’t. So they went out and got me some cubes to put my bottle in.

Lesson learned: I only learned later that (especially cold) water is a bad idea when suffering a foodpoisoning.
Medicin student Loes told me lying on your right side should help to lessen the stomach cramps. It may not feel comfortable, but it’s not more uncomfortable than anything else.

I just walked out the rest to dinner, all in a rather drunken state.
I’d like to join the fun after a whole day in bed, but the smell of the sandwichcarts outside still makes me too nauseous, so I guess I’d better stay home and stick with just yogurt for now, so I at least can get my malarone (malariapills) in…
I notices some vision blubs today, might be them now; it’s one of the possible side effects. There’s a long list, varying from slight nausea to head on paranoia.
[Another reason to avoid taking those unnecessary medications]

A little more about Easy Go Hostel. It looks like they build it themselves, not too long ago. And they keep working on it all the time.
The night before I came here, there was a huge storm that collapsed one of the rooms, so that asked for more work.
But the guys running this place all seem so very motivated!
And I already told you about how nice they are, taking care of me. Of all their guests. This is definitly a place to support!

So sweet how approving they were when I walked out today with a traditional sarong around my waist: “Yes! How Laos wear it!”

Yesterday was the best. Day. Ever!

Day XVIII – April 5

In the early afternoon, as I was slowly recovering, some people opted to go to the falls. Nothing cures a hangover like a cold dive so I tag along. I’m glad I didn’t do that bike thing I was thinking of before; it really is quite far out of the city, no less than 45min at a steady tuktuk speed.
I like to mention that our driver was having a little trouble with his gears, which he fixed by opening up the gearbox, taking a sodabottle with some yellowish fluid and pouring it in – all the while driving.

Kuang Si falls
This water! Wow! I’ve never seen this bright a shade of turquoise.
We went in by climbing up a slippery tree and swinging out from a rope with everyone watching. Hate to admit it, but again I was shaking just the tiniest bit – but it’s that thrill that makes it fun, right.
You grab the rope, take off and float free, until suddenly you hit the water, which is as cold as it is beautiful. It’s nice to be cold every now and then though, remember where you come from and stuff.

The others had already been and know this secret spot, so up we go, crossing a bridge, up a little mountaintrail, crossing a higher basin by walking the legde, followed a wooden walkway, but quickly left it to climb up some wet rocks, covered with some magical moss that, despite the water, gave supersticky grip. We got to the third level and dove in. Not as turquoise up here, less cold and less crowded; sweet! We splash around a bit and discover a cave behind the fall we all fit in. The perfect place to share a first beer, perfect place to declare our new home, perfect place to never want to leave.
But we can go higher. So after we’ve finished the can we go out and up more of those non-slip rocks and get to a fourth level basin and some showers –best ever, undoubtedly!- and we just hang around up there in our own little universe for a while; so nice!

We’re all lost souls on the road.
I was telling of how back home I am the stupid one, always getting myself in trouble, always doing silly things, always getting too drunk and needing my dear friends to be there to guard over me. But, we concluded, out here we’re all that same person.
This came to mind when we were climbing up that impossible rocky road. I thought to myself “Should we really be doing this? We’re never going to get back down.” Something I normally wouldn’t worry about. Don’t think; just do. And out here there’s nobody worrying about it. Means you get to live all these adventures and get a million more adrenaline rushes though.
And I guess this also helps to bond more easily with these people you’re spending only a few days with.

Our driver said he’d meet us again at 5pm. They take a nap in the hammock in the back of their tuktuk while waiting for you, when they take you out to places this far, where you can’t just catch a tuktuk at random.
At 5.30pm we rush down. Not as easy as going up on these rocks, but all goes fast and smooth enough. Once down, a few of the boys have to have one last attempt at a backflip, that only one actually makes. When we get to the parkinglot our tuktuk’s still there.

After showers at the hostel everybody is a bit weary. I leave for dinner with the other three ready to go when I am, and find out only half way there, they intend to go to a restaurant named Lao Garden instead of the market. Well, why not. So I end up eating just some fried rice at 19.000k.
Oh, and I got my first food poisoning today. So yeah, that’s why not.

Later, back to the hostel, we all chill out at the balcony.
At 10pm someone gets up and suggests a game of volleyball. Incredible; you know how hard it is to get going with these big groups, but within 10 minutes everybody is moving. Still it takes half an hour before we’re on our way of course.
So another night at Utopia, where we rotate in playing against a team of locals; good fun! Who won, you ask? No one was keeping score.

Instead of bowling alley, everyone comes along to that beach, where we hang out in some deserted fisherboats, have heavy conversations, music, the laolao Levi [23, USA] and Oli [UK] picked up, pass down a spliff, and Dave and Loes [19, NL] even go in for a midnight dip.

Eventually it gets cold, a strong wind comes up and we go back home. Again, the balcony is hid away behind the safety of the blinds. On the other side lighting begins to strike, right before it start pouring those huge, big, fat drops that splash down with a thump. I cannot resist the urge to dance in it and find a companion in Levi. Together we run down the stairs.
Once soaked through we find a big white tuktuk in the enclosure to hide out in for a while. And suddenly we’re making out. I’ve been feeling myself drawn to him, nothing big, just like being good friends – or, well, more maybe? I don’t know yet how these things should work out here… I just know I find him a really cool guy, with good lips too.
We start making our way back, running from the tuktuk to a shed and after some more kisses back up the balcony and soon enough he leads me to his dorm. I’m a little uncomfortable with other people in the room, so we just cuddle and kiss until we fall asleep to the sound of the drops splashing on the roof, very sweet and soft.

Unfortunately this morning I am woken by my stomach and that poisoning I mentioned before. Well shit!
I have to get out and move, or something. I want nothing more than to lie down and sleep but nothing feels comfortable. I try a mangoshake from grandma and find myself some pillows on the balcony, but that doesn’t make anything better. Levi asks a subtle collective “Who wants to join me out for breakfast?” I’m too embarrassed to explain I couldn’t be any further away from the toilet for the time being, so just sit there quietly…

Over the day most of our group will be leaving for Vang Vieng, and I think I’ll just continue sitting here quietly.

Eventually I do tire of that. So in the afternoon when Lara and Cain and the other 2 new UK’s head out to where the Nam Khan river flows into the Mekong, creating a current that’s fun to swim in, I join them. It’s especially fun with all the local kids splashing around.
Lara warned me where to be careful and pointed out where you HAVE to get to shore, not to be sucked out there and get lost in the mighty Mekong. But I didn’t see well, and went too far that first go. Made it out in time though.
But the second round, when we all went together, we were all sucked down with such violence! I’ve never been this close to drowning! It took a whole minute before I surfaced again. Lucky I didn’t panic, and we all made it out with just a slight fright.

Lara isn’t feeling too great either, so on our way back to Spicy we pick up a snack at the nightmarket and settle in the movieroom for a quiet evening.

Lesson learned: Plan things when you get out here, not from back home; you’ll save money and gain adventure, and locals are always willing to help you out. I’m so sorry to be stuck waiting on that Stray bus.

[Credit for the Kuang Si photos goes to Robert Graham. Thanks my friend!]