Good thing too, because breakfast is at 7am and pick-up at 8am.
Traffic takes us an hour to pass the 12 km from Canggu to Legian beach, where we’re dropped at RipCurl School of Surf.
I have to sign this form saying I understand the risks and accept the possibility of getting hurt in any possible way and that I won’t sue them if I get a chunk bitten out of my leg or whatever. I get a shirt and shorts and an extremely thick waterproof sun block and I almost look surferchick.
It’s just Emma and me today – James got a board slammed into his head yesterday so he’s taking a day off by the pool back at the villa.
Our teach introduces himself as mister Potatoehead and assigns us our boards. We cross the street to the beach and do a little stretching and warming up on shore.
He then takes me through the basics on dry land.
“Lay down, not to far to the front, not to far to the back. Make chickenwings. Look to the wave, 7 meters: paddle shlowly. Look to the front, to the beach, head up. Look back to the wave, 4 meters: paddle fashters. 1, 2, 3, and up! Look straight, to the beach. Oh, you goofy. Ok, left arm shteady, relax, look at the beach. Ok, we go in now.”
He pretty much kept repeating that riddle to me all day, shouting at the paddle bits, being really strict and disappointed when I don’t get up right “Don’t look at you feet! Look to the beach!”
In the end I do catch some waves and ride straight to the beach. And that feeling..!
Right after he tells me about always covering my head, especially when I get wiped out, I end up on the wrong side of my board “Never have your board between you and the ocean.” And get it slammed into my lip. Ah well, live and learn. And there’s too much to learn the first time around.
The lip goes fat and I have a pretty deep cut in there but I can’t wait to go back out tomorrow!
By now more Scandinavians have reached camp, and they keep talking their weird little languages…